ex0d
// key words
exoskin
smartwear
tacticality
agility
IDF
personal security
population
climate
On New Year's Eve 2020 the altar ego 0d was born when the Jerusalem cold penetrated my three layers. My perception of fashion design was changed overnight, and
forever since.
I was a "foreigner" in Bezalel's fashion department, but was no stranger to the industry. I quickly learned the fundamentals of design through practical and
intense applications.
Until now I was focused on writing my creative language through art in the screen based arts department - Bezalel Academy. This module helped shape my design skills and has equipped me with the heavy artillery needed to suit my creative arsenal.
research
// population - The global population has grown from 1 billion in 1800 to 7.9 billion in 2020. We've managed to increase over 87% just in the last 220 years
alone [IR >]
We are faced with a
major population crisis
worldwide. ex0d aims to deliver
a solution that is adaptable to
the inevitable effects [ie. climate change, and the spread of diseases].
// security - ... density and overcrowding, are among the factors directly or indirectly contributing to crime.
ex0d is designed with these variables thaken into consideration. There is an urgent need for protection of personal possessions and security of our belongings. Combat inspired -[שיפצורים][shiftzurim - securing of belongings] have been elegantly adopted to solve
for this.
// survival - According to the 2021 State of the Global Climate report from the UN’s World Meteorological Organisation (WMO), 2015 to 2021 were the warmest seven years on record.
There are many visions of future. The 0d vision consider's our bodies as vehicles of transportation. They take us from point a to point b. We fill them with energy, just like we do our automobiles. Leaning forward, equipping our vehicles
[our bodies] with more intelligent and intuitive solutions [i.e. communication, identification, etc.], only seem necessary to adapt to the fast paced changes occurring around us globally.
// style
The ex0d design was heavily inspired by Israeli paratrooper uniform [aka yarkit]. The paratrooper unit has history in the Israeli Defense Force symbolizing bravery and courage, and what would be my perception of the ‘Israli man’ typecast.
Combat inspired, the ex0d is designed and created using military grade specifications and articulations. Military layering techniques were intelligently implemented to suit the agility and functionality of the wearer under cold weather conditions. It is a one piece designed to look like the traditional 2pc.
process
// rough prototyping - A series of ‘ready-made’ designs exploring the relationship between wool and nylon, as well as with multi-functionality and face protection. This was a foresight of the covid19 pandemic.
I first took inspiration from fashion designers Mathew Williams, Virgil Abloh, Raf Simons, etc., and attempted to design a fashionably intricate wardrobe that allowed the possibilities for facial protection. I had no previous fashion skills so I focused first on essential accessories.
// multidisciplinary - The streetwear course was extra credit. By now I was in my third year of the Screen Based Arts [video] programme. I had been developing my artistic language that ultimately would lead to the birth of 0d. I took advantage of the two departments and combined my skillsets, not certain of what outcomes may be produced. I found interest in the narrative of my designs and proceeded to write my own story, one giving birth to 0d.
At this point in my artistic development, I was exploring the concept of identity; my very own. I was investigating demographic, social, and cultural differences observed from my upbringing and surroundings both in the United States, and, in Israel. After New Years Eve 2020, climate and population research was conducted to support an attire suitable for possible future conditions. This initiated in me the urge to develop something smart for the everyday user of our forecasted future. If automobiles are adapting to change, so should the clothes we wear. They are after-all our primary vehicle of transportation; we need to be more communicative with it, and with our surroundings so we can be more adaptive and efficient as a society.
// technical skills - Prior to this course in Bezalel’s Fashion Department I had no official design skills, but knew, and was later validated by the course instructor, that fashion was ‘in my blood’.
Considering the amount of belongings carried daily, ex0d is tailored specifically to the wearers needs similar to how each combat soldier has a speciality carried out by what they uniquely wear. In the IDF, combat vests are often sewn uniquely to the wearer. Why not their uniform?
From this module, I was able to adopt the technical skills that are not only necessary, but that are essential to being a great designer. This white on black [negative] sketch technique is now a part of my creative language as you, the reader, will unfold throughout the remainder of this portfolio. Assembling the design offered a significant amount of challenges that I was eager to overcome.
// post sketch -
-
Military grade fabrics and accessories were collected to accommodate for the intricacy of the ex0d design.
-
Performance and security were excessively tested.
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A professional was hired to measure and assemble the design. Working with her helped develop my collective design approach founded on the principle of artistic freedom.
outcome
// elegance - the ex0d is designed using the highest grade fabric within the local range [sustainable and economical benefits]. It is designed to resemble the formal IDF paratrooper uniform. It is triple layered [in some cases two] for light-medium winter conditions and has been tested on Mount Hermon, Israel. The materials used are: Nylon, rayon, wool, metal, etc.
// tacti-functionality - A rope tying techniques known as 'aleph aleph' was used to design the belt, which is stylish and has multiple purposes. And, considering the grade of material it can also be used as a survival tool if needed. Additional metal wiring was used to connect and secure personal belongings to the wearer via carabiner's with a locking mechanism. There are multiple connection points on the ex0d.
// intuitivity - The ex0d pockets are uniquely designed to the wearer's needs. Each pocket has designated places for the necessary essentials that will be carried by the wearer. All objects are secured to the wearer via high grade elastic fabric. This way there is nothing loose and the wearer can move freely. Every object has a place. With muscle memory, the wearer can intuitively interact with [m]any object[s] to maximise daily efficiency.
// comfortability - Not only is the ex0d comfortable in the sense feeling, but also in the sense of knowing. Knowing that my belongings are secured to me, gives me better assurance, I can move about my day more freely. In terms of population, the wearer of the future will need solutions that cover theft and/or loss
of possession.
// multidisciplinary -
Given the very deep internal exploration of my identity throughout my 3rd year journal studio in the Screen Based Arts Department, known as Studio Gimel. And, Likewise, discovering my identity through designing ex0d in the streetwear module, have enabled me to create a single video art piece known as TSS [or The Smart Survive] that revealed the character later to be known as - 0d. The design suits the character [my alter ego] as he travels from the most northern to southern parts of a dystopian Israel [artistically] exploring an array of abstractions disguised by society. The short film was partially shot during the first lockdown we experienced from covid19. This added an eerie vibe to the atmosphere portrayed by the character. The film examines internal vs external, isolation/desolation, and the concept of time/place. As well as with identity, of course.
The short film, TSS [source of video content seen throughout this subchapter] was later selected and projected on ZAZ Corner, Times Square, New York. Above is a short clip provided by a friend who noticed and documented this great achievement for me. I edited it with its original audio since it was projected with no sound.
This highlighted for me a new era of video and fashion, but more importantly, visual storytelling and creative narratives.
evaluation
// adaptability - Leaning into the next three quarters of the century, the population is estimated to continue to grow. The faster we grow, the faster we need to adapt. Currently, there are not many solutions confronting the necessity of intelligent wearable solutions. I strongly believe that ex0d is a first step towards the foresighted future of fashion. With more time and resources ex0d can achieve its potential of being the first smartsuit - the macintosh of fashion designed for the everyday user.
// [para]military - I envision designing a more suitable uniform for [para]military personnel. One that is adaptive to nature and responsive to its wearer. It is critical for active personnel of the future to be better equipped than the enemy - human or nature. From my personal experience in the IDF, there seems to certainly be room for improvement in this field. ex0d considers details otherwise left out by mass producers.
// [bio]diversity - Planet Earth has been intoxicated by human induced activity. The quality of life
has decreased, we no longer drink the same water or breathe the same clean air. We take ourselves out of the context of space, but we are a part of it. Our space on earth is finite; population is growing. We need adaptable solutions. We are explorers! I certainly see how more research and development of the ex0d prototype can be useful for future space exploration smartsuits.